Old Céline Madame Boots and that New Phoebe Philo
Archival in Nature - Item 5
Though hardly overlooked during her time at Céline, there’s a retrospective halo around Phoebe Philo's tenure there that continues to burn bright. The popular archive blog, OldCéline.com, is eulogy and testament to this. Philo's runway swan song, Spring/Summer 2018, holds cult status, a showcase of her ability to balance minimalism with the emotional heft of clothes that feel lived-in, personal, and undeniably chic.
SS18 wasn't an over-sentimental farewell, but a collection rooted in the pragmatism that made Philo’s name, and her continued appeal to the working, busy-but-chic (monied) woman. Outfits glided down the runway with an ease that belied their precision tailoring: trench coats with unexpected twists (a belt draped, not cinched; hems that curled up and defied gravity), slouchy androgynous suits, and fringed dresses that clung just enough to suggest movement rather than restrict it. Inspiration for the collection came from “the advertisements of the late ’70s and early ’80s”, Philo said, which showed empowered, stylish women “on the Avenue Foch in Paris. They had pleated skirts and big hairdos… and they were quite a lot older and proud in their feeling about clothes.”1
Particularly memorable from this runway were the shoes ("The shoes - oh the shoes! Stupid-fabulous"), wrote Laura Weir wrote for 10 magazine. One such pair, the 'Madame' boot, became the footwear of the season, with every influencer and editor flaunting a pair at the following fashion week. Their design, eccentric but flattering, blends historic silhouettes (Victorian in the slim, ankle-high cut; an elongated Pompadour in the heel) with a modern fabrication (technical stretch grosgrain with calf leather accents). Named for Madame Céline Vipiani, who founded the French house in 1945, they were hard to get when they were released, and often resell now for >$1k, a prime #oldcéline collector's item (but if you can fit into a 35.5 there's currently a slightly-worn pair on Grailed in beige/oxblood for $210). I found my pair in perfect condition in a vintage shop in Amsterdam, and I don’t think the owner knew their usual resale value, or who Philo was (I stifled my excitement when he suggested to me they were likely '90s).
Covetable as her ready-to-wear can be, Philo has a knack for shoes and accessories. Her entire Céline tenure was puntuacted with sellout hero products, like the AW17 'Edge' sunglasses (here is a pair on Depop for $800...) or the iconic ‘Luggage’ totes, which anyone who was anyone had in the early 2010s. Kim Kardashian was frequently papped with one around this time, and Kanye West (her then partner) is known to be a fan of Philo, first rapping his appreciation for her on My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (2010): "And my b*tch in that new Phoebe Philo". At one point, having looked at too many images of the Olsen twins with old Céline bags, I caved and bid on a black ‘Phantom Luggage’ tote on eBay. I later resold it: although I love the aesthetic, they're not very practical to carry around (one of Phoebe's hallmarks is a bag without structure or closures or feet or cross-body straps...)
Philo left Céline in January 2018. Three years after her departure, she announced the launch of her eponymous brand, Phoebe Philo, which released its inaugural collection in September 2023. This namesake label doesn't adhere to the traditional fashion calendar, dropping low-volume "seasonless" edits (phased releases of a collection). So far, only Collection A has premiered, in 3 edits; the first edit of Collection B is due to arrive on January 22nd. This "socially and ecologically literate" approach, the label says, aims to reduce overconsumption and waste via small production runs and a strong sell-through rate, with "high quality materials…and designs that maintain relevance over time”2
Though I can certainly get on board with this noble ambition (I've seen first-hand how much raw material and inventory gets wasted by luxury brands), Phoebe Philo's prices have raised more than a few eyebrows. Like Céline's aforementioned 'Luggage' family, the label sells unstructured leather cabas totes - but these ones go for $8.5k a pop; there are also $5k gold (plated) necklaces and a sequinned party dress for almost $20k (which, though hand-knitted - is made from viscose and sure to make you sweat 5 minutes into arriving at your party).
I find the pricing eye-watering too (there's not a basic skirt on the website for less than $1.3k right now). But - just like her Céline collections - I'd be lying if I said I didn't find the offering extremely chic, which is in large part thanks to the e-comm styling (the website is one beautiful editorial). And, if anyone's asking, I wouldn't say no to a ‘Drive’ bag...or the ‘Cookie’ sunglasses...or some Oxblood ‘Asymmetric’ sandals…
As I said, Philo has a Midas touch when it comes to accessories.